October 6, 2009 by traveler.

The time has come for the final segment of the Cairo/Giza Photologue. When we left off, we were admiring the royal boat used to transport Khufu to his pyramid. I left the boathouse and turned around for a great view of Khufu’s Pyramid.

Looking at this view, I really have an appreciation for how long the Pyramids have been around. They have seen countless clouds passing by, and withstood the ages in excellent condition. The inside has naturally aged well also. Unfortunately you can’t take photos inside, but the climb is worth the near-heart attack. Typically the burial chamber is the only chamber open to the general public, but it is not what I imagined as a kid. I pictured some Indiana Jones type tomb, but of course the Pyramids aren’t like that. As opposed to tombs of ‘commoners’, the Pharoah’s tombs are very sparse. There is no real adornment inside, and no heiroglyphics explaining the Pharoah’s life. Other tombs had extensive inventories of all that the person owned in life, but the Pharoah’s tomb has no such list. The reason is that an inventory would be redundant- the Pharoah owned all of creation.

Heading outside, we pass this great view of Khafre’s Pyramid. The cap is all that remains of the outer layer of the Pyramid. Like Khufu’s Pyramid, most of the finishing stones have eroded over time. Still, I think Khafre’s ‘toupee’ adds character.

Ah, the World-famous Sphinx. It is believed that the Sphinx’s head is actually that of Khafre. The Sphinx lines up with his Pyramid, and it may be his way of trying to top Khufu. The Sphinx is naturally a metaphor for the Pharoah- the human head symbolizes intellect, and the lion’s body symbolizes power. And he’s been working up a powerful hunger lately. It’s true- the Sphinx now gazes longingly at a KFC & Pizza Hut. Gotta thank Yum Brands for bringing a touch of class to a timeless treasure.

Well, time to pack up and head back into Cairo. What a terrific riverfront- especially near sunset. I didn’t see any crocodiles or reed baskets floating in the water, but I guess that’s only natural since Cairo wouldn’t be the Middle East’s most populated city if everyone were being eaten by crocodiles. My childhood imagination never lines up with actual travel experiences ;)

One more picture to add-

Cairo’s streets are notoriously dangerous. After crawling through cramped traffic, we finally reached a nice open stretch of highway. And what else would you see on a highway but a man on a bike skitching a bus? When you’re riding a bicycle in the middle of a busy highway, you need a break every now and then.

The other Egyptian highlight I have to mention is Koshary- If you’re a huge starch fan like me, then don’t miss out on Koshary. Macaroni, spaghetti, rice, lentils, chickpeas, tomato sauce, fried onion, with a garlic oil Da’a sauce? Rice pudding? Heaven?! Abou Tarek is the place to go for authentic, inexpensive Koshary. It’s so good you might find yourself getting a few orders to go. Strangely Abou Tarek’s website is now a GoDaddy parking page, so here are some Flickr images of the restaurant and their Koshary. Yum!

Well, that does it for the Cairo/Giza Photologue- happy travels.

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September 7, 2009 by traveler.

Time for OuttaLeftField’s second photologue- Cairo/Giza, Egypt. The Great Pyramids of Giza were built in 1889 as a centerpiece for the World’s Fair…no, that’s not right. Ah, yes. The Great Pyramids of Giza were built ~ 2500 BC as a resting place for the Pharoahs before their journey into the eternal life. As a kid I was always fascinated with the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and of course the Great Pyramid of Giza is the only original Wonder still standing. Visiting this site makes me feel like an ancient explorer (aside from the pushy crowds and ever-present vendors). It is all worthwhile to see a view fit for a Pharaoh.

Here is a picture from the ‘classic’ angle. Technically this was towards the end of the tour, but it sets the scene quite nicely. While Khafre’s ‘capped’ pyramid appears to be the tallest, it is actually smaller than Khufu’s Great Pyramid (left). Khafre was clever enough to put his on higher ground and using a steeper slope, so his pyramid has the illusion of being tallest. As you pull up to the Great Pyramids complex, you are confronted by the scale of Khufu’s pyramid (aka the Great Pyramid).

This is the largest pyramid, and the only one to have burial chambers above ground. Oddly enough, the other pyramids all have the burial chamber below ground, not actually ‘inside’ the pyramid itself.

Before heading inside the Great Pyramid, we visited some of the smaller tombs in the complex. I learned that VIPs (Pyramid architects, etc) sometimes scored a tomb near the Pharoahs, and they would include an inventory of all they had in life. For instance, they would write all the oxen a person had, all the goats, chickens, etc so that when he/she made it to the afterlife he/she would have all the same things as in the ’short’ life. Heiroglyphics also explained a bit about who the person was, which is handy since I would be very forgetful if I woke up and my brain had been pulled out of my body.

I call this one “Pharoah’s Entourage” but that’s a misnomer. This appears in one of the lesser tombs, and it is a depiction of different stages of the person’s life. It is hard to tell, but they progress from young to old, left to right. Off-camera to the left are the childhood sculptures. From here we move on to another attraction- the fully reconstructed boat buried for Khufu.

The boat is about 80% original. The original ropes are still on display, and it is incredible how well they survived. Egyptologists are not entirely sure, but they believe the boat may have been built for the sole purpose of transporting the Pharoah’s body to his Pyramid. The low deck signifies that this boat was solely for use on the Nile river- the Mediterranean waters would have sunk the boat.

Well, my internet connection is really spotty, so I will have to bring part 2 of the photologue a bit later. Enjoy the pics, and stay tuned for more Pyramids and the famous Sphinx.

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March 14, 2009 by traveler.

Today I am proud to present OuttaLeftField’s first photologue. Considering my interest in travel and photography, you’d think this would be a regular feature on the site. Sadly I haven’t posted any of my travel pictures until now. Welcome to the first installment of OuttaLeftField’s photologue- Petra, Jordan.

Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, constructed around 100 BC and introduced to the West in 1812. Petra is often thought of as one monument, but it is actually a city that served as capital for the ancient Nabataeans. Taking the scenic route, you can see how ancient visitors and traders would see Petra from a distance. Hidden within the desolate landscape was a thriving city at the center of Nabataean caravan trade.

Once you arrive in Petra you’ll want to stretch you legs- it is a long way from Amman! A glance at the guidebook tells you that there will be LOTS of walking on this trip. If you’d rather conserve your energy, you can opt for a rickety ride in. I was glad to finally use my legs again, so we set out walking towards the ruins.

Along the way you come across several minor attractions such as ‘Elephant Rock’. This formation was carved by wind and time into its namesake.

Continuing on you see some human-carved sights in Petra. The stair-shaped carving signifies that there is a tomb underneath. As your camera snaps away, you realize that you will be taking way more pictures than you planned.

Once you pass through some scenic countryside you come to the entrance of the Siq (the Shaft). This narrow, natural crevice serves as the primary entryway to Petra and builds anticipation for the Treasury.

Just a little farther….

Popularized in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the Treasury (or Al Khazneh) is the most elaborate and certainly the most famous site in Petra. Sadly, the Holy Grail is not contained inside. One local legend, however, is that there was treasure hidden in the Urn at the top of the structure. Bedouin travelers would take shots at the Urn to make it spill the treasure. Hence this structure got its name ‘the Treasury’. The elegance and finely-crafted details make the Treasury well worth the admission.

Once you have soaked in all the Treasury’s majesty, you remember that there are still many sites to see in Petra. Don’t worry about the hike, though, because you will be pestered relentlessly to take a camel/donkey/horse ride throughout the rest of Petra. Be prepared to say a polite ‘no, thanks’ (‘la, shukran’) all day long. That camel looks tired, anyway.

Near the Treasury you can see different generations of Petra guards. Gotta keep an eye on that treasure!

Leaving the Siq/Treasury area, you can decide what other attractions you want to see. You won’t be able to see quite everything, but you can accomplish a lot if you fuel up at the cafe inside Petra.

Continue on and see yet another structure carved into the cliff face. This particular one is off the beaten path, and I didn’t get a great view…

This guy, however, got a much better view from his aerial perch.

If you are up for the challenge and don’t mind your lungs collapsing, you can attempt to climb up to the Monastery. This site is some 800+ stairs up a mountainside. Again, you can sit as a donkey carries you up, but you won’t have the same sense of satisfaction at the top. Instead, head off towards the stairs carved into rock and navigate the (often slippery) path upwards.

As you climb, you will pass numerous mini souvenir stands selling miscellaneous tchotchkes. Even stranger than their location is the fact that NONE of them sold water- the ONLY thing I wanted to buy as my body burned. Finally, some 800 stairs later, you reach the summit and the majestic view of the Monastery.

What a view. You can’t help but feel, however, that the Monastery looks an awful lot like a less-ornate version of the Treasury. Hmm…maybe those suckers who stayed behind weren’t missing out like you thought. Still, you will get some fantastic views of the surrounding cliffs and the satisfaction of completing a heart-thumping, sweat-filled hike up an exhausting cliff.

No trip would be complete without a few souvenirs. If you didn’t purchase anything from the cliffside vendors on the Monastery climb, there are many more opportunities throughout Petra. One of my favorites is Flintstones Bedouin Accessories & More. I doubt this store is Hanna-Barbera approved, but Petra does evoke images of Bedrock.

Alright- you’ve seen the sights, hiked some mountains and purchased some memories. Time to head back. Are you sure you don’t want a donkey ride back to the entrance? Happy hour! Half price! No? Ok.

The nice thing about heading out the way you came in is that you get to catch up with anything you missed the first time. Snap some more pictures along the hike back.

The day in Petra winds to a close, but this trip easily provides a lifetime of memories. If you’re one of the lucky ones with time on your side, spend the night in a Wadi Rum camp and then head down to Aqaba for a few more days of fun in the sun. If not, you have plenty of time to reminisce during your long ride home.

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